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Cooking (Bon Appétit, February 2001)
I’ve fallen for men on little more than a shared predilection for New England clam chowder and written off others for disliking avocados. During high school, I manifested my unrequited crush on our class’s “Most Organic” by spading up a patch of the back yard and planting vegetables. And every Saturday morning of my childhood I ate my father’s pancakes; thin, delicate, and swimming in a puddle of Log Cabin syrup, they represented not only the superiority of weekends but the comfort of home.
“Hey,” I said, “why don’t we stay here?”
“Great,” he replied. And then, as I hung up his dripping
jacket and poured us each a glass of wine, as I slipped a John Coltrane
CD into the player and an apron over my head, I felt a slight but
palpable shift, a fog of formality rolling in on what had been a sunny
day. Normal second date jitters, I thought, they’ll burn off once we
start talking. But they didn’t. Oh, the evening went all right; he
cleaned his bowl of my soup and expressed delight that the whole-wheat
bread came from his favorite bakery. He stayed until midnight, and
before leaving, washed the dishes while I dried. But something had changed. What we’d shared over dal and Kingfisher beer, the slight frisson as I’d licked Nutella off my index finger and, thirty seconds later, watched him do the same off his, had dissipated. This time, as we said good night, the magic was over.
We offer ourselves up when we cook, even if we’re making a
piece of toast. I’d kept my bedroom door closed the entire evening--no
accident, I realized later. I’d already revealed enough in my
proportions of vegetables to stock, my blend of seasonings. And that
was just the soup. He’d seen my refrigerator with its magnetic poetry
kit haiku involving the words chocolate, sordid, and
fluff, the photo of me in a smocked party dress at age five, the
postcard of a Giotto annunciation. He’d seen the washed Ziploc bags
drying from the protruding handles in my knife block, the four brands of
mustard, the frozen heel of bread. He didn’t need to see the color of
my sheets and my friendly old teddy bear, too. Of course, P and I didn’t stop dating just because he’d eaten my soup and glimpsed the inside of my refrigerator. Other factors played a decisive role. Even without his fussy scrubbing of the sink, I wouldn’t have been charmed by his mention of his ex’s current relationship woes or the fact that he rarely speaks to his two siblings. These items would’ve given me pause no matter where I learned them. But learning them in my own kitchen helped to clarify, once more, what I want in a man and what, it turned out, P was not. Cooking for a man, it seems, can be a helpful diagnostic. I know that the next time I meet a man I like, I’ll invite him over, too. And if he’s Mr. Right, homemade soup won’t scare him (or me) off.
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